Kada sam davne zime, 1997. godine prvi put posjetila Veneciju,
nisam je uspjela u cijelosti otkriti...
Bilo je to doba maskembala, tmurna, hladna i maglovita zima...
Preostale su samo neke loše fotografije kao sjećanje,
ali i ovaj meni prekrasan suvenir - gipsana kućica u cvijeću -
u potpunoj suprotnosti sa slikom Venecije koju sam tada doživjela.
When I last visited Venice, in winter 1997, I failed to find it...
It was carnival time in February and the winter was cold and foggy...
Only some bad photographs remained as remembrance.
This little house bought as a souvenir is left as the only nice reminder
and it is in complete contradiction with my 1997 Venice experiences.
Ovog proljeća dogodio se novi izlet u Veneciju, odluka ishitrena
i donesena na prečac, no nerijetko su upravo takve odluke najbolje.
Pod dojmom Italije uslijedilo je još jedno iskustvo:
u jeku svih poslova i obaveza uspjela sam pročitati Forsterovu
,,Sobu s pogledom“.
Sve se zajedno stopilo i urodilo svakojakim razmišljanjima...
U romanu dva mlada lika Lucy i George, preplavljeni ljepotom ljubičicama obrasle livade
u brdima iznad Firence, osjete potrebu da se poljube...
(pred sto godina krajnje nedopustivo).
There has been a sudden decision to go to Venice again this spring and it turns out
that such decisions are usually the best.
This new impression of Venice coincided with another experience.
Despite all my obligations I managed to read “A Room with a View" by Forster.
Both have melted together and my brain has started thinking about all kinds of different issues...
Young characters Lucy and George, overwhelmed by the beauty of a meadow overgrown with violets
on the hills beyond the city of Florence, feel the need to kiss each other...
(shameful one hundred years ago).
,,Soba s pogledom“ društvena je komedija i govori o zadrtosti viktorijanskog doba u Engleskoj,
ali i hrabrosti glavnog ženskog lika da te staromodne društvene norme ruši.
Ono što je mene povezalo s Venecijom
opisi su engleskih turista u to vrijeme i njihovih razmišljanja o tome kako treba putovati.
Po prvi sam se put susrela s pojmom Baedeker - ime njemačkog pisca turističkih vodiča 19. stoljeća.
Po piscu su i sve njegove knjige jednostavno nazvane Baedekerima.
U romanu se javlja dilema koristiti li uopće turistički vodič jer ,,on zadire samo u površinu
i o istinskoj Italiji može samo sanjati. Ona se pronalazi jedino
pažljivim promatranjem.“
“A room with a view“ is a social comedy and it displays Victorian narrow-mindedness
of British society of the early 20th century.
It also displays the courage of young Lucy to confront such attitudes.
What connected me to Venice in this novel were the descriptions of British tourists
and their attitudes to travelling.
I have found the notion "Baedeker" for the first time - he was a German traveller guides writer
in 19th century. All his traveller books were simply named Baedekers.
There is a question in the novel whether to use a Baedeker while travelling.
“Tut, tut! Miss Lucy! I hope we shall soon emancipate you from Baedeker. He does but touch the surface of things. As to true Italy-he does not even dream of it. The true Italy is only to be found
by patient observation.“
or a more snobbish one
“If you will not think me rude, we residents sometimes pity you poor tourists not a little -
handed about like a parcel of goods from Venice to Florence, form Florence to Rome,
living herded together in pensions or hotels, quite unconscious of anything
that is outside Baedeker, their one anxiety to get “done“ or “through“
and go on somewhere else."
Iako nam je cilj bio lutati manje poznatim uličicama
kako bi doživjeli one manje razvikane znamenitosti,
jako mi je nedostajalo detaljnije poznavanje prošlosti Venecije
kako bih je još bolje razumijela. Baš mi je trebao jedan Baedeker.
Ipak smo nabavili mapu kako bi imali osjećaj gdje se krećemo.
Ukoliko ste se uputili u Veneciju kopnenim putem na četiri kotača, najprije morate prijeći jedan dugačak most.
Naći ćete se na lijevoj strani karte. Manji vas tramvaj može jeftino prevesti nekoliko stanica,
ali i dalje ostajete u lijevom dijelu grupe otoka i čeka vas dugo hodanje do
Piazze San Marco u istoimenom kanalu.
Our aim was to wander through unknown, narrow streets
and experience less known sights,
but I felt the lack of a more detailed knowledge of history of Venice
to understand it better. I needed a Baedeker desperately.
Eventually, we bought a map, just to have a sense of the direction we were moving to.
If you visit Venice by car or coach, you will first cross a long bridge
and find yourself on the left side of the map.
A tram car can take you closer, the tickets are cheap and it is a five minutes ride,
but you will still have to walk a long way to Piazza San Marco.
Najbolje je kupiti kartu za brod ili unajmiti manji gliser koji će vas dovesti do samog glavnog trga,
no to mnogo više košta.
Mi smo išli gliserom jer je nam je brodić pobjegao pred nosom -
40 € za nas četvero i jedno dijete. No, nismo požalili.
Prekrasno je bilo gledati Veneciju s mora.
Vrijeme nismo štopali: sve je trajalo dvadesetak minuta.
Prilikom svog prvog izleta nisam uspjela uočiti
iznimno veliki broj kupola i tornjeva. Jesu li sve to crkve, ne znam,
ali većina su izgrađene od bijelog kamena kao i
crkva Santa Maria della Salute koja je najvećim dijelom izgrađena od našeg, istarskog kamena.
Maybe the best way to get to Piazza San Marco is to take a waterbus (vaporetto)
or take a small motorboat which is much more expensive.
We took the motorboat as vaporetto had just left.
We payed 40 € for four of us and one child.
Nevertheless, we did not regret it. It was really beautiful to see Venice from the sea.
We did not measure the time. It was about twenty minutes long ride.
It surprised me to notice the number of churches, church towers and cupolas.
Whether they were all churches I could not tell.
They were mostly built of white stone and the Santa Maria della Salute was built
of our Istrian white stone.
Dio Duždeve palače koja je odmah uz baziliku San Marco...
A part of Doge's Palace next to Basilica of San Marco...
Trgom San Marco zbog gužve teško je hodati i uslikati sve kako bi se željelo.
Turisti su često uviđavni, zastat će i sačekati da se slikate.
Bazilika San Marco prekrasna je. Pred njome kolona turista
koji čekaju ulazak. Ne ulazimo ovog puta
jer želimo šetati onim djelovima Venecije koji ne vrve turistima
i posjetiti povijesni pomorski muzej.
The Piazza was so crowded it was difficult to move around freely
and take photos. Tourists were patient and they would always wait for a while.
The Basilica was gorgeous. There was a long line of tourists who were waiting to get inside.
We decided not to enter as we wanted to explore
the less crowded streets and visit the Naval History Museum.
Zvonik na trgu San Marco...
Campanille San Marco
Most uzdaha - prijelaz iz jednog u drugi svijet,
iz svjetla u tamu, iz slobode u tamnicu...
Bridge of Sighs - a transmission from one world into another,
from light into darkness, from freedom into dungeon...
Stara pročelja...
Old facades...
Kanali, mali mostići, uske uličice i jedan nakrivljeni toranj...
Channels, little bridges, narrow streets and one leaning tower...
Cigla i kamen, kombinacija koja mi se toliko dopada...
Brick and stone together. So nice...
Pogled s mosta Rialto na Canal Grande...
A view from Rialto Bridge onto the Canal Grande...
...i druge scene...
...and some other scenes...
Metalni planetarij kojeg je konstruirao Michael Wiemer 1825. godine.
Upotrebljavao se kao pomoć u obuci u austro-ugarskoj pomorskoj školi
koja se nalazila u samostanu Sv. Anna u Castellu.
A metal planetarium built in Linz by Michael Wiemer in 1825.
Used as a training device in the Austro-Hungarian Naval School
sited in the Convent of St. Anne in Castello.
Dok smo prolazili -jedan čovjek jedan bend- svirao je i pjevao
,,Stairway to heaven“
...and it makes me wonder, and it makes me wonder...
As we were passing by this one man band was playing and singing
“Stairway to Heaven“
with a deep, warm voice...
...and it makes me wonder, and it makes me wonder...
